When we discovered that there was a U.N. biosphere reserve on Vancouver Island, we packed Charlie and headed north. And we weren't disappointed. I've never seen anything like this before. Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve looks like tropical Panama, mountainous Northern California, and lush Alaska fused into one. It's one of the most unique places I've ever experienced.
The drive from Victoria, Vancouver Island, to the reserve led us through clear rivers, coniferous forests, snowy peaks, and curvaceous roads. (Not to mention that the average speed limit is 80 kph, so it took half a day to go 230 km.) Four hours into the drive we spotted our first black bear. He/she was hanging over the guardrail - the guardrail! - observing passing traffic. Upon noticing the black goliath, I might have hit cross traffic if there actually were any. The bear looked at us, and kept his coolness. He stayed stationary - two paws hanging over man-made steel - as we screeched slowly by. Whoa. I had a feeling I'd see amazing wildlife on Vancouver Island.
As the driver, I relished the ethereal citing until we reached Tofino, surfer/sea town north in the reserve. We decided to lodge at a private campground only a few kilometers from town center. That night, we walked into town looking for a bar. But we encountered our first realization of BC - this is First Nation country. In other words, the tribes (i.e. Inuit) dislike liquor. So getting licensed is rough. We settled on Days Inn Marine Pub - the only pub in town. But we didn't care. It overlooked the bay and splinter of lush islands spotting the horizon.
After a bellyfull of Canadian Spring lager and seafood chowder, we headed back to camp, keeping an eye out for guardrail-hugging black bear.
The next day, we hiked Pacific Rim National Park, which provides insight into the cultural and ecological surroundings. The reason the U.N. named this a biosphere reserve is because the 60 km region offers bog forests, one of the last temperate rain forests in the world, long Pacific beach fronts, tidal pools, and burgeoning, diverse wildlife. During our time in the region, we viewed black bear, bald eagles, starfish, hawks, sea lions, and loads of banana slugs. But we missed a lot - like humpback whales, jaguar, and wolves.
Over the next few days, we went sea kayaking, scared ourselves silly (ok, myself silly) listening to late-night phantom bear paws, made morning treks to tidal pools, and discovered why rain forests - even temperate ones - keep everything green. Minus the clandestine pubs, this has got to be one of the best kept secrets on our planet.
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